posted 9 September 2006

InTent
231 Mott Street
between Prince and Spring

212.966.6310

http://intentny.com/

For a long time, we've had a great appreciation and respect for François Payard and Philippe Bertineau's talents in the kitchen. It was our intent (no pun intended) to check out their new downtown restaurant, as soon as we heard they were opening one, especially as it was, more or less, in our neighborhood. We finally made it to InTent the other night. I'd be loathe to offer a full review based on one dinner, but our initial impressions were very favorable. It's clear we will return and will be bringing friends.

Although the area bounded by Houston Street, the Bowery, Canal Street and Sixth Avenue is packed with restaurants, few have much current appeal to us. Peasant and Balthazar are two exceptions in NoLIta, though both tend to be booked far in advance, reducing their value as neighborhood restaurants. One of the things that astounds many visitors to New York, is how far in advance they have to reserve to get a table at a middling restaurant. Wednesday night may be an off night at many places, but we were pleasantly surprised to get an early reservation at InTent one day in advance. Even more pleasing was to have our call answered, and our request for a table the next night, handled most hospitably in a neighborhood that's becoming all too hip and trendy.

Esilda had the crab Napoleon and the grilled scallops, neither of which she seemed particularly interested in sharing except to show me how well cooked the scallops were. She also gave a thumbs up to the brandade cake on which the scallops sat and the clam/chorizo broth with tiny clams and slices of chorizo. They were indeed perfectly translucent in the middle and nicely browned on the surface. All too often, I've been served overcooked, opaque in the middle, scallops indicating a kitchen brigade that's careless or catering to a audience whose standards differ from mine. Let's hope InTent gets the clientele it deserves—one that appreciates fine cuisine and one that keeps the kitchen on its toes. As for those attracted by the ambience and trendy neighborhood, we can only hope InTent educates their palates.

I had the grilled octopus with white bean salad and filet of daurade in brik pastry leaves. The octopus was perhaps too tender in my subjective taste, but the beans were perfectly cooked and seasoned. Overall, the daurade was a very good dish. I particularly liked the graceful garnish, although those looking for "spicy" vegetables and tomato oil might be disappointed with the subtlety of the seasoning. I like dishes that use brik and phyllo dough, but here, I wondered if the filet wasn't overpowered, especially as it sat on a bed of well seasoned, but homespun roughly mashed potatoes. Note that this is a criticism I'd hardly bother to make if I didn't respect the cooking so much. I'd return and happily order the same thing if there weren't other dishes I want to try. Esilda's choices are particularly enticing.

Esilda may have also had the best dessert—peach streusel tart with thyme ice cream—of the evening, although I can't say as she neglected to offer a taste of that either. Then again, I was quick to finish, but not quick to share, my roasted strawberries with candied fennel, greek yogurt and honey. Payard was at the bar, but I didn't notice him when we arrived. We've known François for perhaps a decade and at some point in the evening he recognized Esilda and came over to our table to say hello. He also sent out an excess of desserts. Savory courses are well sized. By that I mean one can have an appetizer and a main and still have room to thoroughly enjoy a good dessert, but not wallow in a slew of desserts. We didn't do justice to the two chocolate desserts or the fig dessert. While all the desserts were excellent, the chocolate tart with candied hazelnuts is the other one not to miss. Not yet tasted, but I hope to find it on the menu when I next return, is the feta cheesecake with red wine poached dates and white pepper ice cream. It's no surprise that dessert alone is going to be worth the trip. I'd expect that at any restaurant opened by Payard.